Hello everyone, and welcome to what may be this blog's best entry!
This 3 part entry is about answering the most common questions every Lolita, beginner or veteran, asks themselves at one point.
"When did Lolita fashion begin?"
"How did Lolita fashion become what it is?"
"Is Lolita Fashion feminist?"
Now those questions have already been answered multiple times by other Lolitas with very different points of view, which I believe are all valid.
My favorite takes in particular are from Tyler, aka ScarfingScarves, a Sweet Lolita known for the hilarious Last Week Lolita News which comes out on YouTube every week, and Megu, an Australian Lolita who made the very informative short video series Kawaii Fashion School with Deerstalker Pictures a while back.
Deerstalker Pictures: The History of Lolita - Kawaii Fashion School
DISCLAIMER: This entry is written based on my own personal research, my own personal perspective on what the fashion means to me, and my own personal experience with the fashion. If any information here is not completely accurate, please feel free to politely inform me!
This first part answers the question: "When did Lolita fashion begin?"
Now before we begin, a quick Story Time! (This has been repeated many times, so for some of you, consider this a refresher.)
When I was about 14, (That would be 8 years ago this year!) I stumbled upon the fashion by accidentally winding up in a BABY THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT store when I wandered off while on a school club trip to San Francisco.
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| BABY THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT/ALICE AND THE PIRATES San Francisco |
I distinctly remember the very first Lolita dress I tried on! It was the gingham check op in black and white. It had a beautiful rose embroidery on the front of the dress, corset lacing, a cute check print, and lots of lace! I fell in love instantly!
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| BABY THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT Gingham Check Creeping Rose OP 2010 Re-Release |
A few years later, I decided to try to look for it on secondhand. Once I got the information from Lolibrary, it took me a bit to realize that it was a re-release. (This was back in around 2013-2014.) So then I delved into the history of the dress, one thing led to another, and before I knew it, I found myself asking myself a few questions.
"How long has this fashion really been around?"
and
"When did the fashion come onto the streets?"
Now for those who are unfamiliar with Lolita, the first question is, "What is Lolita fashion?"
Lolita fashion is the combination of the traditional femininity of Rococo, the Romantic Gothic image, and the spirit of Punk rock in one fashion style.
The fashion typically consists of an overly frilly dress that goes down to the knees, a petticoat and bloomers underneath, long socks or tights with Mary Jane shoes, and a headdress or Alice-style head bow on top, along with some accessories such as wrist cuffs and cute purses.
To answer that, a little background is needed.
Most people in the Punk and Goth scenes argue that Gothic and Punk began in Great Britain.
Punk is said to have began during the late 1960s, Goth in the late 1970s, both pop culture phenomenons which spread to America during the British Invasion throughout the 1970s, and so on.
Early Punk rock bands such as The Sex Pistols, The Clash, and American Punk rock band The Ramones, as well as Goth bands like The Cure and Bauhaus became popular during that time.
As much as I hate to sound like an elitist Gothic and Punk "gatekeeper," but historically speaking, before the fashion, there was the music.
The Punk Movement emerged from the liberal ideas of going against oppressive authority, breaking societal norms, destroying negative stigmas and stereotypes, fighting for our right to be who we are, and standing by those who are oppressed because of their race, religion, gender, or sexual orientation and are in need of support.
Punk rock culture is the absolute prime of Chaotic Good. It is the attitude that was needed during a time when people went to drastic and hurtful lengths to maintain conformist ways that kept other people in the dark, locked in the closet, deprived from the freedom to be who they really are.
Goth however was born from the idea of embracing and celebrating the strange, dark, gloomy and eerie things that are often feared or attacked, and allowing yourself to take a deep breath and experience sadness rather than suppressing negative emotions or simply distracting yourself from them.
Goth culture is a beautifully artistic way of giving yourself emotional, mental, and creative freedom in a society that expects you to be exclusively happy, sane, and colorful all of the time.
Those ideas were expressed through music, which is pretty much the best way to get any message through to many people!
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| The Sex Pistols: 1975-2008 An English Punk rock band. They are said to have been responsible for igniting the Punk Rock movement in the UK. Most Notable Song: God Save the Queen |
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Bauhaus: 1978-2008
An English Post-Punk band popular in the 1980s.
Known for their dark and gloomy image, which became popular within the Goth scene.
Most Notable Song: Bela Lugosi is Dead
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The Ramones: 1974-1996
An American Punk Rock Band. Popular in the US and the UK.
They are said to have defined the Punk rock sound in the US.
Most Notable song: Blitzkreig Bop
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| The Cure: 1976-Present An English Gothic rock band. Front man Robert Smith is the only consistent member of the band. Most Notable Song: Friday I'm in Love |
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| The Clash: 1976-1986 An English Punk rock band. One of the pioneers of the Punk movement in the UK. Most Notable Song: Should I stay or Should I go |
As Goth and Punk music gained a following, so did the fashion styles that were inspired by it.
Crazy hairstyles, ripped and washed out denim, leather jackets with studs, tattoos and piercings, band logos, and the iconic safety pin, became the most common motifs of Punk fashion.
All black clothes, black lipstick, strong eyeliner, multiple accessories usually found in Punk too, and black hair made up the Goth fashion style that most people today are familiar with.
Hot Topic also became popular during that time when they sold lots of clothes and accessories typically found in Goth and Punk fashion. (Nowadays they sell mostly geek pop culture merchandise.)
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| An Early 2000s Hot Topic store. |
Pretty soon, Goth and Punk became known throughout the world.
But when did Lolita fashion come into the scene?
Most argue that Lolita started in the late 1980s to the early 1990s in Japan when they had their Goth and Punk movement a little later.
But how did the fashion come to be what it is? Where did the lace and frills come from? Who set the standards for Lolita fashion?
That will all be answered next post, so keep in mind the attitudes and ideals of the Gothic and Punk movement!
Thank you for reading, and I will see you next time!
-Blandis
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