The Origins of Lolita Fashion: Part 2 - The Gothic Lolita Aesthetic

Hello everyone and welcome to Part 2 of The Origins of Lolita Fashion!

Last time I wrote about what the fashion is and a little about the history of the early Goth and Punk movement that inspired the fashion to come onto the streets. (Read Part 1 here.)

Today we talk about the fashion itself: The inspiration behind it, and the biggest contributors to the fashion's foundation.

We now answer the question: "How did Lolita fashion become what it is?" 

Now while Goth and Punk began around the late 1970s, Japan's Gothic and Punk movement began in the late 1980s to the early 1990s.
At that time, Japanese youth were inspired by all the different sub genres of Rock music, including Goth and Punk, to stand out and break away from a corporate, traditionalist, and conformist culture through fashion and music. At that time, different types of J-Rock such as Visual Kei emerged from that era. Rock bands formed and quickly gained popularity underground, most notably Malice Mizer.

Malice Mizer: 1992-2001
One of the most famous Visual Kei bands.
Guitarists Mana and Közi originally formed the band.
They have had three lead singers over time: Tetsu, Gackt, and Klaha.
(Klaha Era of the early 2000s shown above.)

Lolita fashion was born within this movement.

It rose from the idea that girls should break away from the the norm, which at the time for women and girls in Japan was the "domestic and obedient wife" model, and instead pursue their own ideas, their own aspirations, and their own ways of living out life instead of centering themselves and everything they do around taking care of a husband, and doing whatever he tells her to do.

"Lolitas do not recognize any authority. They follow only the values they have chosen for themselves, regardless of what anybody might say." 

-Novala Takemoto

That kind of attitude was inspired by the heart of Punk.

Most of those girls were of course told by conformist women that they will never be able to get a husband if they dressed in Lolita, to which the response was always, "Good."

If that doesn't define what Punk is all about, what does?

As for the Gothic Part, most people in Lolita fashion argue that Mana, former lead guitarist of Malice Mizer and designer of Gothic Lolita brand Moi-Même-Moitié, pretty much set the standard for the Gothic Lolita look.

Mana took a lot of inspiration from the Romantic period, and also from the traditional Catholic aesthetic. It shows in Malice Mizer's aesthetic, and in some of the religious motifs found in the dresses Mana designed for Moi-Même-Moitié.

Album Cover for Malice Mizer's "Bara no Seidou"

Lace Cross JSK

Stained Glass Print JSK

Divine Cross JSK

Another contributor to the fashion is one of the most iconic Punk fashion designers that I believe EVERY Lolita should know of, considering that she was referenced to in Novala Takemoto's Lolita fashion manifesto Kamikaze Girls a few times:

The one and only Vivienne Westwood!

Vivienne Westwood in the late 1970s

One of the original Punk designers during the UK Punk movement, she became very popular among Japanese youth, especially when she introduced the Rocking Horse shoe on the runway in 1985.
Later on the shoes became a staple in Lolita fashion!

The Iconic Rocking Horse Ballerina Shoe

The high-fashion brand of the same name made its way into Japan during their Gothic and Punk movement. Other notable pieces are the heart bag, orb jewelry, and three strap shoes. Other brands soon followed these trends that Westwood set.

Heart Bag

Orb Earrings

Three-Strap Mary Jane Heels

Westwood pieces have been featured in a lot of manga and anime that feature Japanese Street fashion, and have been also featured in the fashion magazine for Lolita fashion, Gothic Lolita Bible. (The magazine discontinued in 2017.) Here are a few scans from my own GLB volumes.

Novala Takemoto (Right) shown wearing a Vivienne Westwood Orb brooch.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 5 

Vivienne Westwood Orb Pearl Choker Necklace and Plaid Blazer
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Vivienne Westwood Jewelry featured in an ad for Japanese brand retailer I-LOVE BRAND.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Vivienne Westwood Accessories picked by the woman above.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Closet Child ad along with an Old Baily ad featuring Vivienne Westwood.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Vivienne Westwood Accessories.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 7

Orb earrings, an armor ring, and red three-strap shoes that resembled Westwood's were featured in the Murder Mystery visual novel DanganRonpa on the character Celestia Ludenberg, a Gothic Lolita Gambler.

Celestia Ludenberg Character Design
DanganRonpa Official Artbook

Vivienne Westwood was also referenced to in the manga/anime NANA many times! Nana Ozaki, a front woman of a Punk rock band, is often seen in Vivienne Westwood. (For any Lolitas looking for an anime to watch or a manga to read, NANA is a really good one, and I highly recommend it!)

(And while we are on the subject of NANA, back at the Alternative Press Music Awards in 2017, I spotted Andy Black, front man of Black Veil Brides, sporting a very familiar look! He was wearing the popular chain necklace from Japanese Punk fashion brand Sex Pot ReVeNGe.)

Left: Ren Honjo from NANA
Right: Andy Black, Front man of Black Veil Brides, at the 2017 APMAS

No one really knows exactly who in particular started Lolita fashion in the first place, it pretty much just came out on its own. 

Why it's called "Lolita," no one really knows that either, but most argue that the name just sounded cute, and it suited the look very well.

(Just to clarify for some of you, Lolita fashion has NOTHING to do with the novel, "Lolita." They just happen to have the same name!)

But where did the frills come from? Now most say that Japanese girls took inspiration from Victorian and Rococo styles and modernized them to fit the lifestyles of most Japanese youth involved in the Goth and Punk movement. (Vivienne Westwood also happened to be heavily influenced by Victorian and Rococo.)

Marie Antoinette: 2006
A Biopic based on the life of French Queen Marie Antoinette and her reign before the French Revolution.

Victoria: 2016-Present
A British TV show based on the life of Queen Victoria.

While today Lolita fashion is mostly worn at organized tea parties and meetups, most Lolitas back then would go shopping, and/or attend underground rock shows or concerts. This meant that practicality was needed much more than aesthetic, hence why the fashion was simpler when it first began.

AKIRA in the live-action movie adaptation of the manga Ai Ore!
Ai wo Utau yori Ore ni Oborero! (Ai Ore! Love Me!)

But now comes more questions!

Why the long skirts? Why the long socks and high collars? Why have the shoulders covered? How could such a conservative fashion style come out of a movement that well, wanted to get away from that?

Wait until the next part, where we bring Western sexism in!

Thank you for reading, and I will see you next post!

-Blandis

The Origins of Lolita Fashion: Part 1 - The Gothic and Punk Movement

Hello everyone, and welcome to what may be this blog's best entry!

This 3 part entry is about answering the most common questions every Lolita, beginner or veteran, asks themselves at one point.

"When did Lolita fashion begin?"

"How did Lolita fashion become what it is?" 

"Is Lolita Fashion feminist?"

Now those questions have already been answered multiple times by other Lolitas with very different points of view, which I believe are all valid. 

My favorite takes in particular are from Tyler, aka ScarfingScarves, a Sweet Lolita known for the hilarious Last Week Lolita News which comes out on YouTube every week, and Megu, an Australian Lolita who made the very informative short video series Kawaii Fashion School with Deerstalker Pictures a while back.

ScarfingScarves: Is Lolita Fashion Feminist?  Part 1, Part2, and Part 3

Deerstalker Pictures: The History of Lolita - Kawaii Fashion School

DISCLAIMER: This entry is written based on my own personal research, my own personal perspective on what the fashion means to me, and my own personal experience with the fashion. If any information here is not completely accurate, please feel free to politely inform me!

This first part answers the question: "When did Lolita fashion begin?"

Now before we begin, a quick Story Time! (This has been repeated many times, so for some of you, consider this a refresher.)

When I was about 14, (That would be 8 years ago this year!) I stumbled upon the fashion by accidentally winding up in a BABY THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT store when I wandered off while on a school club trip to San Francisco. 

BABY THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT/ALICE AND THE PIRATES
San Francisco

I distinctly remember the very first Lolita dress I tried on! It was the gingham check op in black and white. It had a beautiful rose embroidery on the front of the dress, corset lacing, a cute check print, and lots of lace! I fell in love instantly!

BABY THE STARS SHINE BRIGHT
Gingham Check Creeping Rose OP
2010 Re-Release

A few years later, I decided to try to look for it on secondhand. Once I got the information from Lolibrary, it took me a bit to realize that it was a re-release. (This was back in around 2013-2014.) So then I delved into the history of the dress, one thing led to another, and before I knew it, I found myself asking myself a few questions. 

"How long has this fashion really been around?"

and

"When did the fashion come onto the streets?"

Now for those who are unfamiliar with Lolita, the first question is, "What is Lolita fashion?"

Lolita fashion is the combination of the traditional femininity of Rococo, the Romantic Gothic image, and the spirit of Punk rock in one fashion style. 

The fashion typically consists of an overly frilly dress that goes down to the knees,  a petticoat and bloomers underneath, long socks or tights with Mary Jane shoes, and a headdress or Alice-style head bow on top, along with some accessories such as wrist cuffs and cute purses. 

So now the real questions as to when Lolita fashion began: When did Punk rock begin, and where did the Gothic part of "Gothic Lolita" come from?

To answer that, a little background is needed.

Most people in the Punk and Goth scenes argue that Gothic and Punk began in Great Britain.
Punk is said to have began during the late 1960s, Goth in the late 1970s, both pop culture phenomenons which spread to America during the British Invasion throughout the 1970s, and so on.
Early Punk rock bands such as The Sex Pistols, The Clash, and American Punk rock band The Ramones, as well as Goth bands like The Cure and Bauhaus became popular during that time.

As much as I hate to sound like an elitist Gothic and Punk "gatekeeper," but historically speaking, before the fashion, there was the music.

The Punk Movement emerged from the liberal ideas of going against oppressive authority, breaking societal norms, destroying negative stigmas and stereotypes, fighting for our right to be who we are, and standing by those who are oppressed because of their race, religion, gender, or sexual orientation and are in need of support.

Punk rock culture is the absolute prime of Chaotic Good. It is the attitude that was needed during a time when people went to drastic and hurtful lengths to maintain conformist ways that kept other people in the dark, locked in the closet, deprived from the freedom to be who they really are.

Goth however was born from the idea of embracing and celebrating the strange, dark, gloomy and eerie things that are often feared or attacked, and allowing yourself to take a deep breath and experience sadness rather than suppressing negative emotions or simply distracting yourself from them.

Goth culture is a beautifully artistic way of giving yourself emotional, mental, and creative freedom in a society that expects you to be exclusively happy, sane, and colorful all of the time.

Those ideas were expressed through music, which is pretty much the best way to get any message through to many people!

The Sex Pistols: 1975-2008
An English Punk rock band.
They are said to have been responsible for
igniting the Punk Rock movement in the UK.
Most Notable Song: God Save the Queen

Bauhaus: 1978-2008

An English Post-Punk band popular in the 1980s. 
Known for their dark and gloomy image, which became popular within the Goth scene.

Most Notable Song: Bela Lugosi is Dead

The Ramones: 1974-1996

An American Punk Rock Band. Popular in the US and the UK.
They are said to have defined the Punk rock sound in the US.

Most Notable song: Blitzkreig Bop

The Cure: 1976-Present
An English Gothic rock band.
Front man Robert Smith is the only consistent member of the band.
Most Notable Song: Friday I'm in Love

The Clash: 1976-1986
An English Punk rock band.
One of the pioneers of the Punk movement in the UK.
Most Notable Song: Should I stay or Should I go

As Goth and Punk music gained a following, so did the fashion styles that were inspired by it.

Crazy hairstyles, ripped and washed out denim, leather jackets with studs, tattoos and piercings, band logos, and the iconic safety pin, became the most common motifs of Punk fashion.

All black clothes, black lipstick, strong eyeliner, multiple accessories usually found in Punk too, and black hair made up the Goth fashion style that most people today are familiar with.

This movement continued on into the 2000s and made way for many punk and pop punk bands, most notably Green Day, to come into the mainstream and spread throughout America and the rest of the world.
Hot Topic also became popular during that time when they sold lots of clothes and accessories typically found in Goth and Punk fashion. (Nowadays they sell mostly geek pop culture merchandise.)

An Early 2000s Hot Topic store.

Pretty soon, Goth and Punk became known throughout the world.

But when did Lolita fashion come into the scene?

Most argue that Lolita started in the late 1980s to the early 1990s in Japan when they had their Goth and Punk movement a little later.

But how did the fashion come to be what it is? Where did the lace and frills come from? Who set the standards for Lolita fashion?

That will all be answered next post, so keep in mind the attitudes and ideals of the Gothic and Punk movement!

Thank you for reading, and I will see you next time!

-Blandis