Friday, February 8, 2019

The Origins of Lolita Fashion: Part 3 - The Feminist Impact

Hello everyone, and welcome to the third and FINAL part of The Origins of Lolita Fashion!

In the last part, I wrote about how the fashion came to be what it is, and where the fashion took inspiration from. (Read Part 1 here, and Part 2 here.)

Today we will discuss the feminist impact the fashion has despite its conservative aesthetic.

We answer the final question: "Is Lolita fashion feminist?"

Last time I wrote about a feminist impact that Lolita fashion has, I mentioned that in Japan, Lolita fashion was worn by girls who refused to live up to the common expectation of finding a husband and becoming domestic obedient wives, and instead dressed for themselves, and for their own happiness.


Well in the West, it was a bit different.

While many girls in the Western Goth and Punk movement preferred fishnet stockings, short skirts, lace-up combat boots, and corset tops as their choice of weapons to fight the suppressing, man-made "Good Girl" image that demonized any girl who preferred to behave otherwise, I believe the conservative side of Lolita Fashion fought a different form of suppression: an American archetype I like to call, The Malibu Barbie.

Throughout most of the early 2000s in America, most girls in the magazines and on TV were often clad in questionably tacky and revealing clothing, mostly in bright colors. Most girls featured in TV shows, pop music, and movies targeted towards young girls were also perky, white, rich, and blonde.

That made very little room for any other kind of representation that broke away from that model.

Paris Hilton during that time was a prime example of The Malibu Barbie.

Paris Hilton during the 2000s.

In commercials, if super models weren't in tight-fitted tops and short skirts eating food in a questionably suggestive way, they were in lingerie or swimsuits. They had skinny waists, perfect cleavages, and shaped butts in small panties. (Remember those controversial Carl's Jr. ads that got taken down?)

It was an unhealthy boost of hypersexualization and promotion of the super model build of women in the media, and it became a problem that still goes on today!
It was the perfect way to make girls and women feel insecure.
It was the perfect way to entice young girls into believing that if they spend money on products listed in their favorite magazines that tell them how to lose weight and look hot, they will get a boyfriend, become popular, and be satisfied.

I believe Lolita Fashion, especially Gothic Lolita, fights that.

It runs far away from the male fantasy,
it denies men the view of the naked female body,
it strengthens the idea that a girl should dress for herself instead of catering to a desire for popularity and the male gaze,
it strikes fear into people who refused to understand alternative fashion, music and culture.
and it refuses to let the wearer become sucked into the media that profits off of insecurities and low self-esteems.

Gothic Lolita Psycho 2010

To me, Lolita fashion really takes from the liberal spirit of Punk rock. The same spirit that called for people to break away from the oppressive Government and the mainstream media's idea of how everyone should be. The same spirit that called for people to be who they are and embrace it. The same spirit that tells women that no matter what they wear, they are NOT made to be objects of sexual interest, they are people who have the right to what they wear, and what they do!

Now, I am not saying that grown women can't dress however they wish to, because they certainly can!
I am saying that grown women ALSO have the right to keep their bloomers on, and their shoulders covered should they wish to, and women deserve to be seen for who they are as a person rather than by the sexualized parts on their body.

Lolita fashion, unintentionally enforces a girl's right to protect her own body from those who have little to no respect for her privacy, and her right to pursue her own personal happiness over catering to a man's wishes.

I say, that's pretty damn feminist!

So now we come back to the questions at hand.

When did Lolita fashion first begin?

Answer: During Japan's Goth and Punk movement in the late 1980s-early 1990s, and the fashion took a lot from the earlier days of that movement in its style and attitude.

How did Lolita fashion become what it is?

Answer: Lolita fashion is said to have taken a big majority of inspiration from the Victorian and Rococo eras, and that inspiration was combined with Gothic and Punk fashion to create a new style. A couple of the biggest contributors to the fashion are the magazine Gothic Lolita Bible, and prominent designer brands Moi-Même-Moitié, and Vivienne Westwood.

Is Lolita fashion feminist?

Answer: Personally, I believe Lolita fashion IS feminist. It certainly fights against the male fantasy, as well as certain forms of female suppression, even if it's unintentional.

Thank you so much for reading, I hope those wanting to get into Lolita fashion or are already into the fashion feel proud to wear it, and really feel the spirit of it!

-Blandis

Friday, February 1, 2019

The Origins of Lolita Fashion: Part 2 - The Gothic Lolita Aesthetic

Hello everyone and welcome to Part 2 of The Origins of Lolita Fashion!

Last time I wrote about what the fashion is and a little about the history of the early Goth and Punk movement that inspired the fashion to come onto the streets. (Read Part 1 here.)

Today we talk about the fashion itself: The inspiration behind it, and the biggest contributors to the fashion's foundation.

We now answer the question: "How did Lolita fashion become what it is?" 

Now while Goth and Punk began around the late 1970s, Japan's Gothic and Punk movement began in the late 1980s to the early 1990s.
At that time, Japanese youth were inspired by all the different sub genres of Rock music, including Goth and Punk, to stand out and break away from a corporate, traditionalist, and conformist culture through fashion and music. At that time, different types of J-Rock such as Visual Kei emerged from that era. Rock bands formed and quickly gained popularity underground, most notably Malice Mizer.

Malice Mizer: 1992-2001
One of the most famous Visual Kei bands.
Guitarists Mana and Közi originally formed the band.
They have had three lead singers over time: Tetsu, Gackt, and Klaha.
(Klaha Era of the early 2000s shown above.)

Lolita fashion was born within this movement.





It rose from the idea that girls should break away from the the norm, which at the time for women and girls in Japan was the "domestic and obedient wife" model, and instead pursue their own ideas, their own aspirations, and their own ways of living out life instead of centering themselves and everything they do around taking care of a husband, and doing whatever he tells her to do.

"Lolitas do not recognize any authority. They follow only the values they have chosen for themselves, regardless of what anybody might say." 
-Novala Takemoto

That kind of attitude was inspired by the heart of Punk.

Most of those girls were of course told by conformist women that they will never be able to get a husband if they dressed in Lolita, to which the response was always, "Good."

If that doesn't define what Punk is all about, what does?

As for the Gothic Part, most people in Lolita fashion argue that Mana, former lead guitarist of Malice Mizer and designer of Gothic Lolita brand Moi-Même-Moitié, pretty much set the standard for the Gothic Lolita look.




Mana took a lot of inspiration from the Romantic period, and also from the traditional Catholic aesthetic. It shows in Malice Mizer's aesthetic, and in some of the religious motifs found in the dresses Mana designed for Moi-Même-Moitié.

Album Cover for Malice Mizer's "Bara no Seidou"
Lace Cross JSK
Stained Glass Print JSK
Divine Cross JSK


Another contributor to the fashion is one of the most iconic Punk fashion designers that I believe EVERY Lolita should know of, considering that she was referenced to in Novala Takemoto's Lolita fashion manifesto Kamikaze Girls a few times:

The one and only Vivienne Westwood!

Vivienne Westwood in the late 1970s
One of the original Punk designers during the UK Punk movement, she became very popular among Japanese youth, especially when she introduced the Rocking Horse shoe on the runway in 1985.
Later on the shoes became a staple in Lolita fashion!

The Iconic Rocking Horse Ballerina Shoe

The high-fashion brand of the same name made its way into Japan during their Gothic and Punk movement. Other notable pieces are the heart bag, orb jewelry, and three strap shoes. Other brands soon followed these trends that Westwood set.



Heart Bag
Orb Earrings
Three-Strap Mary Jane Heels

Westwood pieces have been featured in a lot of manga and anime that feature Japanese Street fashion, and have been also featured in the fashion magazine for Lolita fashion, Gothic Lolita Bible. (The magazine discontinued in 2017.) Here are a few scans from my own GLB volumes.

Novala Takemoto (Right) shown wearing a Vivienne Westwood Orb brooch.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 5
 

Vivienne Westwood Orb Pearl Choker Necklace and Plaid Blazer
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Vivienne Westwood Jewelry featured in an ad for Japanese brand retailer I-LOVE BRAND.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Vivienne Westwood Accessories picked by the woman above.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Closet Child ad along with an Old Baily ad featuring Vivienne Westwood.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 20

Vivienne Westwood Accessories.
Gothic Lolita Bible Vol. 7


Orb earrings, an armor ring, and red three-strap shoes that resembled Westwood's were featured in the Murder Mystery visual novel DanganRonpa on the character Celestia Ludenberg, a Gothic Lolita Gambler.

Celestia Ludenberg Character Design
DanganRonpa Official Artbook

Vivienne Westwood was also referenced to in the manga/anime NANA many times! Nana Ozaki, a front woman of a Punk rock band, is often seen in Vivienne Westwood. (For any Lolitas looking for an anime to watch or a manga to read, NANA is a really good one, and I highly recommend it!)







(And while we are on the subject of NANA, back at the Alternative Press Music Awards in 2017, I spotted Andy Black, front man of Black Veil Brides, sporting a very familiar look! He was wearing the popular chain necklace from Japanese Punk fashion brand Sex Pot ReVeNGe.)

Left: Ren Honjo from NANA
Right: Andy Black, Front man of Black Veil Brides, at the 2017 APMAS

No one really knows exactly who in particular started Lolita fashion in the first place, it pretty much just came out on its own. 
Why it's called "Lolita," no one really knows that either, but most argue that the name just sounded cute, and it suited the look very well.

(Just to clarify for some of you, Lolita fashion has NOTHING to do with the novel, "Lolita." They just happen to have the same name!)

But where did the frills come from? Now most say that Japanese girls took inspiration from Victorian and Rococo styles and modernized them to fit the lifestyles of most Japanese youth involved in the Goth and Punk movement. (Vivienne Westwood also happened to be heavily influenced by Victorian and Rococo.)

Marie Antoinette: 2006
A Biopic based on the life of French Queen Marie Antoinette and her reign before the French Revolution.
Victoria: 2016-Present
A British TV show based on the life of Queen Victoria.

While today Lolita fashion is mostly worn at organized tea parties and meetups, most Lolitas back then would go shopping, and/or attend underground rock shows or concerts. This meant that practicality was needed much more than aesthetic, hence why the fashion was simpler when it first began.

AKIRA in the live-action movie adaptation of the manga Ai Ore!
Ai wo Utau yori Ore ni Oborero! (Ai Ore! Love Me!)

But now comes more questions!

Why the long skirts? Why the long socks and high collars? Why have the shoulders covered? How could such a conservative fashion style come out of a movement that well, wanted to get away from that?

Wait until the next part, where we bring Western sexism in!

Thank you for reading, and I will see you next post!

-Blandis